Moulay Bousselham

We headed to Fez and to a Marjane to replenish our alcohol supplies since this is the only place to buy it at sensible prices. Truth be told, our heart wasn’t really in Fez from the start. We had a fantastic time in Marrakesh but our travelling experience tells us that unless you are willing to psych yourself up and give the necessary mental and physical commitment that a large city demands, then you are destined to have a poor experience.

After the desert we wanted somewhere to relax and find a similar place to Erg Chebbi on a simple and inexpensive campsite with fresh local produce nearby.

Moulay Bousselham Lagoon from above

We decided to head for the coast. This comes at a cost since we will miss the ‘traditional’ route back via Chefchaouen, but as we will definitely be back this leaves us something to look forward to for next time.

At Moulay Bousselham there is a campsite on the lagoon for the price of £5/day and we’re so pleased with our decision that we are already extending our time in Morocco by a few days to soak up the fantastic atmosphere.

C&C produced a large inflatable two man kayak from the depths of their van and we spent several hours paddling around the lagoon in tandem.

The campsite here is great with breath-taking views and sunsets over the lagoon with the sea in the far distance. Each morning a small number of Moroccans come by offering food; the first day it was huge juicy sweet strawberries for 75p a punnet, then it was crab cooked and brought to our van. The campsite restaurant also makes tasty chips for 75p a portion which has been a fabulous accompaniment to our locally caught fish cooked on the outside barbecue.

   "Crab Man"                                                    Local Strawberry Boy

We had been watching the local's turning up at the mouth of the lagoon all day, every day, bartering for fresh fish to sell at their own stalls in the village. We took a look for ourselves as we really fancied a fish and chip tea that evening. For 80 Dirhams (£6) we got 2 kilo's of fresh fish which went nicely with the chips which we had ordered from the onsite restaurant for 3 o'clock.

Lots of different species of fish at the local fish market in Moulay Bousselham

Maybe we’ll leave on Monday? Maybe not. We’ll see!

Rissani, The Ziz Gorge & Azrou

                                                    Rissani Fruit Market in the Souk                           Macaque Monkey in the Cedar Forest

With our time in the desert having come to an end we set off for Rissani in search of supplies. For us the journey back north signifies the long haul back to the UK for the summer and we're really not ready to leave this amazing country. 

The bustling Souk (market) was in full swing and we left our vans at the side of the road with an official looking guardian who didn't want paying until we returned (70p). It wasn't long before we picked up an unofficial 'guide' appropriately wearing a union jack hoody and despite being told very firmly we weren't going to pay him he insisted he just wanted to practice his English. The Souk was vast and winding and when we eventually found the meat we were spoilt for choice with ten or so butchers hanging various cuts of meat, lamb and turkey for buyers to inspect and purchase.

Buying meat in Morocco is an assault on the senses and isn't really for people with a total detachment from the animal from which their food originates. There also aren’t the cuts of meat you are used to seeing as it is all taken straight from the carcass often hanging in the front of the stall or from small portions hacked off and placed on the front counter. As far as beef is concerned there are two main types; 'brochette' which assumes you are going to cook small tender pieces on a skewer or 'tagine' which is cheaper as it requires long, slow cooking to tenderise. The meat is usually only hours old and therefore hasn't had time to age so therefore steak can be a bit hit and miss. 

The trick here is to always ask for the price per kilo before asking for your cut. We managed to buy 2KG of turkey breast sliced straight off the carcass for 140 Dirhams (£5 per kg) and 1kg of beef for 100 Dirhams (£7.50). You have to be in the right frame of mind to 'shop Moroccan'; it requires some quick and assertive decision making as to what bit of meat you want. Vegetable shopping is a much more relaxed affair where you pick up a bowl and help yourself.

With all our supplies bought we considered lunch. There are many street food vendors, however on closer inspection much of the food had a closer relationship with the street itself then we would have liked so we opted for lunch in the van en-route to Blue Meski. The site was a bit of a strange affair with the river running through the middle and lots of people milling about with not a lot to do. From here we arranged a tour with Brahim for the next day for our drive to Azrou.

We picked up the French speaking guide and headed off to see the abandoned Kasbah which was accessed by crossing a short rubble field to pick up a deserted road. The Kasbah was abandoned in 1970’s when the dam was built allowing the valley to flood and making the Kasbah dangerous to inhabitants.  At the end of the Ziz Gorge we stopped for a tagine (goat we think) and to pay our guide who was to find his own way back to Azrou. 

 Outside the abandoned Kasbah          Colourful tiling still exists years later

Crossing the lesser Atlas at 2,200m, enterprising Moroccans were set up at the side of the road renting out sledges to passers-by. We considered retrieving the body board and joining them to see if we could better our attempts at the Sahara Surfing but our bodies were not yet acclimatised to the near 30 degree drop in temperature from the desert. 

It wasn't long before we encountered the Barbary macaque monkeys lined up at the side of the road being fed by passers-by, catching individual orange segments before inspecting and eating them.  

We had two choices of campsite in Azrou: 'Euro Campings' which is the self-proclaimed best campsite in Morocco, next to a garish resort with gold Aladdin lamps outside that looked like it belongs at a Disney theme park, or a smaller understated campsite further up the road in a cherry tree orchard with nesting storks adorning the roof of the main house. It was a fantastic location, except for the slightly dodgy electric which left C&C, who are on gas rations, with a cold van as temperatures dropped to -7!

Morocco Laptop GPS - Garmin nRoute

We use our dashboard mounted navigation (click) system in Europe a LOT.  Thanks to Microsoft Autoroute, our location is plotted in real time on a map and we have all of our useful POI (Point Of Interest) information available to view at the click of a mouse.  Unfortunately, Microsoft doesn’t provide any mapping information for Africa so upon arrival you are presented with a totally blank continent!

Microsoft Autoroute - No good for Africa

There is a solution, however, thanks to Garmin. If you are familiar with Garmin products you may have already seen or used some of the programs I am about to talk about. There may even be a better way of doing what it is I am about to describe in which case please get in touch!

What you need to download and install (in this order).

Garmin Basecamp (MapSource) - Click to Download

This is the engine behind the software, it allows you to plot and use the data and manipulate the maps but not to navigate as it has no GPS option. It’s not much use on its own, unless you already have a Garmin in which case you should be able to view the maps you own using this software.We have a TomTom so no idea how one would go about loading their Garmin maps onto the computer!

Garmin Basecamp showing some of the POI's from the Olaf Map
(scroll down for details of where to download it)

Garmin nRoute - Click and Download 'nRoute_276.exe'

nRoute itself is a legacy program which means it is no longer supported by Garmin and is not available from their official site. It is however available to download elsewhere on the internet. I couldn’t get it to work on its own, without having a copy of Basecamp or Mapsource downloaded onto the system already, hence the step above. The software accepts a GPS input from a Garmin device and will plot your current position on a map. If you have a regular USB or Bluetooth GPS receiver like then you will need an extra bit of software detailed in a minute. 

Garmin Nroute connected to a GPS receiver

Open Maps Free Navigation Map's Click & Zoom to Morcco, select 'enable manual tile selection'

Open Maps allow you to download free navigation maps, if this is of interest to you and you do not already have the Garmin maps. You can easily switch between maps using the interface and choose which one you prefer to use - Olaf's map is much more detailed in some areas but you can't plot a route using it. Since both are free, there is no harm in using both. You need to download 3 tiles for full Morocco and Western Sahara coverage.

Olaf’s Free Morocco Map (Marokko-Topo) - Right Click, Save As  |  Click to see information

The Olaf map is well respected by hardened overlanders for Morocco and contains a wealth of POI and map information for free and we found it largely accurate during 2,000 miles around Morocco. A fantastic resource.

Note: This map does not support ‘navigation’ but does have lots of POI information built in so is worth installing. Using nRoute or Basecamp you can swap between maps maintain your existing position / view so it's easy to find out which map is best. We use this map for the built in POI information.

Franson GPS Gate Client - Click to Download - 'Free GPSGate Client'

The final piece in the puzzle is to get your regular GPS receiver to work alongside Garmin Nroute, which only detects a own branded Garmin GPS receiver.

   

Connect your USB GPS Receiver and open Franson GPS Gate Client. Set it to emulate a Garmin device on an available COM port and minimise it to the tray. You can now open Garmin N Route which should have automatically detected the free Marokko-Topo map. If it has not you may have to re-install the map in the root of the C:\ and manually select it’s location.

NRoute with Franson Gate GPS Client open & transmitting

Using the Software 

Wide angle zoom showing the Satellites Pane

The software is relatively straight forward to use. The bottom section of the software is the menus for Waypoints, Saved Routes, Tracks, Favourite Finds, Status (giving speed & height), Driving Directions (for Garmin Maps), Trip Computers and Satellites

If you right click using the 'pointer' tool you can choose 'Find nearest places' and select 'Campground or RV Park; which on the Olaf map contains lots of information regarding nearby camp sites. 

The 'Find Nearby Places' pane

The best way to get used to it is install and and have a good play around with it while Simulating the GPS by selecting Utilities > Simulate GPS to allow you to play with the map while still at home before getting to Morocco.

We found it a fantastic tool to have in Morcco and I hope that you've found this post of use too!

Erg Chebbi, Sand Dunes & The Sahara Desert

The dunes of Erg Chebbi rise high out of an otherwise flat, barren landscape and the road deteriorates until you are effectively driving on the desert floor. The campsite we'd been recommended turned out to be full and the last two pitches were so soft they threatened to consume our vans. We end up at Hotel Oasis just around the corner, not really a campsite but our host Ali was only too pleased for us to stay. We're happy to be away from all the french and with an unspoilt view of the largest dune this was to be our home for the next 6 days. We're still travelling with our good friends Catherine & Chris (The World Is Our Lobster) who have really added to our experience here in Morocco, we feel so lucky to have met such like minded people through the interwebs!

We sit and do nothing but soak up the atmosphere of our surroundings. Suddenly Julie & Jason (OurTour) and Chris & Tina (GoalGetting) appear at our doorsteps, we've been in touch with them for ages now and we end up meeting in a place none of us originally intended to go to. They are staying round the back of the plush Hotel Timbuktu and the availability of alcohol sets the location for the following evening....and the evening after that! On the second day we set out after dark, with both of us tired after a desert trek we decide to drive having walked the previous evening. The unpaved tracks prove difficult to navigate and we end up enlisting the help of a young lad on a bike who rides in front of us, delivering us at the gate for the sum of 20dh (£1.50).

We trek out into the desert behind the campsite where our friends have arranged a fire to be built and we sit wrapped in blankets talking about our travels. The light in the desert attracts Hassan IV and his friend from a neighboring hotel, who arrive complete with their own wine! Hassan turns out to be quite a character and we get a real insight into the 'berber moderne' outlook on life as he offers his wine to share with the group.


The night is a perfect send off for the group as J,J,C&T leave the next day to continue their trip - we wish them well and hope that our paths cross in the future.

With the largest dune staring down on us from our campsite we decide that it must be tackled. The final ascent is gruelling and is only possible on hands and knees but the view from the top stretching into Algeria more than makes up for the effort. Once back at the van we reflect that perhaps the middle of the day wasn't the best time to attempt it and we retreat indoors for a cold shower and a fantastic meal of brochette and chips in the hotel restaurant.

A trip to the Sahara wouldn't be complete without a camel ride. This turns out to be harder than first expected. It's not possible to simply turn up at the 'camel rank' since they don't deal direct nor take any money from you. Back at the hotel Ali arranges it for us and half an hour later two camels arrive. Ideally we'd just like to sit on one, but we opt for the mini tour with Sophie and Chris trekking off into the desert. Chris isn't so sure about the experience and gives up his seat on the return leg to Adam who is equally uncertain of the virtues of camel riding. Sophie meanwhile is having a whale of a time and sulks like a 3 year old when it's finally time to get off.

Chris and Adam decide they want to try surfing down the dunes and set off armed with Chris' body board for a practice. After a few attempts they head off for the steepest dune and proceed to surf down it with Chris performing some spectacular barrel roles, we wonder if he is planning a secret career as a stunt double! The efforts soon attract some local children and before long we are running an impromptu activity evening on the dunes of the Sahara, some of the little lads having clearly been practicing their moves although we get satisfaction that none are daring (or stupid?) enough to stand for the largest dune. If you want to see the results, watch the video at the bottom of this post!

Erg Chebbi is a pivotal point for us. We've been here a month now and after nearly a week of glorious sunshine we must begin the trek north across the High Atlas. We ask for the bill. It's £48. six nights, two 3-course meals, 12 loaves of bread and 2 camel rides for £8 a day - what can we say? We love Morocco!

Dades & Todra Gorges

View from the top of the Dades Gorge

The Dades Gorge is first on our list but since we've traveled from Ait Benhaddou we miss the best time for photographs down the Gorge and out of the sun, which is early morning. That being said the road is in good condition and the climb to the top of the steep pass has wide bends and able to accommodate even a large camper.

At the top we consider our options; the road does go on further but descends and then deteriorates and instead of going on much further we decide that a lunch stop is once again in order. The restaurant overlooks the pass in a prime position with 30 or more tables peering over the edge with spectacular views, although we're the only ones present.

We order a 'Tajine' and expect the usual couscous and meat, but what arrives takes us by surprise. There is egg, saffron, turkey, coriander and countless other spices along with the obligatory side serving of frites, at the price of £5 per head - not bad considering the location.

Hotel Camping Le Soleil

The entrance to the Todra Gorge was an unassuming turn off on the edge of a busy town and true to form the road on the approach was terrible but the views from the top of the pass were breathtaking. In the valley as far as the eye could see was a sea of green palm trees and crops growing in the basin, contrasting with the deep reds and oranges of the surrounding land. The Campsite Hotel Camping Le Soleil was like a little Oasis and a perfect base for exploring the Todra and also to get a couple of loads of washing done!

From the Campsite the road continues until reaching the mouth of the Gorge where it becomes concrete slabbed and you may or may not be requested to pay 5dh (40p) towards the upkeep. The sheer sides and narrow floor is what differentiates the Todra but doesn't seem as spectacular . We carry on past it for 10km but the truth is there isn't much to see once you get out of the narrow section and you're better off concentrating your time here. We did meet a few locals on our way through the gorge in brightly dressed Moroccan attire.

After a few relaxing days back at the site we set off for the Sahara Desert, we're not sure what to expect apart from sand and camels so watch this space!

Erg Chebbi

Ait Benhaddou & Telouet

Ait Benhaddou

It's been nearly a week since our last update. It's not that we're running out of things to write about, unable to access the internet or been lost somewhere in Morocco. We've been and done so much that the task of sitting down to describe it all has become daunting!

We arrived in Ait Benhaddou after a slightly tortuous drive through some Moroccan style roadworks, Catherine and Chris after already losing one wheel trim earlier in the trip had a second make a break for it on a particularly rough section. Opting for the guarded parking (25dh) with 15 Italian vans over the nearby campsite we piled in the first restaurant we found for a well deserved Brochette and Chips x4.

Abdul had already made our acquaintance on our arrival. Dressed in a simple brown Berber robe he made a bee line for us on entry and proudly produced a photocopy of a German magazine in which he featured to prove his caliber as a tour guide. We didn't need a guide, but Abdul was hilarious and game for anything so we negotiated for 70dh (£5) for a tour of the old town.

Passing the inevitable line of shops on the way to the kasbah, Chris almost emerges without his trousers since an enterprising Moroccan stall holder takes a shine to them and encouraged him to trade them for something from his shop. Another beckons us in and tries to pressure us into a £50 bracelet, which is later bought by Chris from another stall for just £6 an hour later.

The kasr is a sight to behold and after crossing the river Abdul points out the old buildings from the new in between jokes and silly noises which nearly have us in tears. One of the beauties of building with mud is that it all looks the same, with whole sections having been constructed during its long history as a film set. The streets are steep and winding but the view from the top is impressive as the dark clouds clear allowing us to get some great shots on our way back down. We're not sure what we have learnt from Abdul, who has since found some Absinthe growing and is sniffing it vigorously, but we're happy to tip him 30dh for the entertainment factor alone!

View from the river-bed at Ait Benhaddou

 

Telouet


We decide on a side trip to Telouet to see the Kasbah and impressive valley but the information we have to hand is unclear. Some say the road is fine but the man at the campsite in Ait Benhaddou, which we moved to the next day, seems to think we are mad to attempt it. We leave our van on site and head off with C&C to attempt it. Just up the road we spot a compound with two Moroccan men painting the bright road markers which you see all over the country.

Moroccans painting the road markers

Our Route & Detailed Info
Click to see in Google Maps

We decide to head up the N9 and down the P1506 which as it turns out is perhaps the best way to approach it in a non 4x4. The road as far as Telouet is poor but we meet nobody coming our way, the road immediately after Telouet is treacherous but passable for 10km before turning into a brand new tarmacked oasis.

The only detraction from this is the incredibly narrow wooden planked bridge just before returning to Ait Benhaddou which is not so much narrow as it is a tricky decent with a low motorhome with an overhang Chris managed it without incident.


In Telouet we park outside an inn and are greeted by a young Berber guy who offers us a meal and, not feeling like eating from the van, we agree. The restaurant is freezing cold and deserted but a fire is soon lit and the food, rustled up from somewhere, delicious. Our host informs us he is a 'Berber Modern' and instead of a donkey he uses a 4x4 and drinks alcohol - this seems to be a common trend in Morocco!

The Kasbah itself which originally belonged to the Berber Pasha from Marrakech (Lord of the Atlas) back in 1912 doesn't look much from the outside, we've seen our fair share now and we apprehensively hand over 20dh (£1.50) each as an entrance fee towards restoration. It needs it; the walls are crumbling and doors marked with a red X are a no go, the ceilings are caving in. Inside the mosaics are beautiful and unbefitting of the crumbling exterior. From the rooftop we view the snow topped mountains and the simple town below, it's cold and the children here are wrapped up warm but an extra layer or two wouldn't go a miss. This is one of the poorest towns we've come across.

The road back to Ait Benhaddou gives rise to breathtaking scenery and given that the road is not even a year old we feel we are getting a preview of a simpler Moroccan way of life.