Europe By Camper - Travelling Europe By Motorhome: Poland

Krakow & Wieliczka Salt Mine

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Having stayed a second night at Auschwitz we headed into
Krakow, not wanting to do the usual extortionate campsite on the outskirts and
mess about with public transport on the way in we had researched ‘Secure
Parking’ and found a little car park about 15 minutes walk away (GPS: 50.07215,
19.93570). Cost was £10 but given the
campsite was £20 + transport it didn’t feel so bad. It was worth e-mailing
beforehand as some other campers were turned away.</div>
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Krakow immediately felt much more pleasant than Warsaw
and there was more of the old town to see on foot. Although reconstruction has
of course taken place since WWII it somehow feels more authentic here, much of
the old town and castle has a great feel to it. It was a baking day and several
litres of water were consumed as we walked round.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Aside from the obligatory spiral staircase to get to the
top of St Mary’s Basilica we didn’t pay to visit any attractions, it was such a
nice day we decided Krakow was best viewed from the outside.</div>
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The bars which lined the square beckoned and on the
evening we enjoyed a few beers as the buildings became illuminated.</div>
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<o:p> </o:p>Another early start saw us heading to Wieliczka Salt
Mine. Again – worth getting here early, the mines open at 8:30am in peak season
and certainly by the time we exited I wouldn't have wanted to be just arriving.
At £30 for both of us we did have to think twice before we parted with our
money but trusting in our Lonely Planet we did so and descended the 380 steps
to the base of the mine.</div>
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Although slightly overshadowed by a group of gobby Essex
tourists the tour was great and the mines much cleaner than some of the helmet
shod water soaked underground mines we have visited in the past. The lift back
to the surface however consisted of us and 6 French tourists doing sardine
impressions in a tiny metal lift for 30 seconds – Sophie was not impressed! </div>
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Krakow & Wieliczka Salt Mine

Having stayed a second night at Auschwitz we headed into Krakow, not wanting to do the usual extortionate campsite on the outskirts and...

Auschwitz

You can't really go to Poland without visiting Auschwitz and so we made sure it was ranked high on our to do list for this trip. Our greatest fear was that it was going to be commercialised; I couldn't begin to imagine what the tourist tat sellers would be peddling but I'm sure they'd think of something.<br />
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We were wrong.</div>
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There were in fact three Auschwitz sites but only I and II remain, the site pictured above that is the "famous" image of Auschwitz II (Birkenau) and was our first port of call. This site is free to get in, but if you visit between 9am and 3pm you need a guide to do so. A free shuttle bus connects I and II together, however as we arrived late in the day we went to II first and parked for free outside. We're currently parked outside I with 15 other campers for roughly £5 for 24hrs (GPS: 50.02704, 19.19924) and intend to visit tomorrow so we'll update this post when we next get online. </div>
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It sounds like an irrelevant and highly irrational comparison but it reminded us of Pompeii - both are somewhere we studied at school and had recognizable landmarks from that time but neither pictures or videos manage to communicate the sheer scale of the place. While many of the buildings were destroyed towards the end of WWII, with only a few sections being faithfully restored, even without their wooden cladding the concrete bases and brick chimney stacks serve as a reminder of just how many people were housed here.</div>
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 We've read reports of an eerie silence and lack of birdsong in the compound. I'm happy to report that wasn't the case, wild flowers and animals are present in the compound and the tourists are some of the most well behaved you'll see - with an exception of a few 'posing' for photographs which we thought was a bit distasteful.<br />
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There are two types of buildings used to house prisoners, those purpose built and those which were converted from military stables. Both are equally harrowing but my preference would have been the stables if only for the more elaborate looking heating arrangement which ran down the center of the room.<br />
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At the far end of the compound are the gas chambers where the holocaust took place. These were blown up with diamante and destroyed before the end of the war and have been left in their original post-blast state. I don't think they need any further commentary.<br />
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<b>Auschwitz I</b><br />
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We sort of did it the wrong way around, but actually we're sort of glad we did.<br />
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Auschwitz I is the museum the wrong way around but it doesn't matter too much. The same rules apply, if you enter between 10am and 3pm you need to do so with a guide. You are charged 40zt to enter and a 5zt deposit for your audio headset. However, when we returned for a second walk around after 3pm we weren't challenged for tickets so perhaps the whole site is free after this time? That said it is useful to go with a guide who will also acompany you to Auschwitz II should you wish via the free shuttle bus.<br />
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 The tour today was pretty harrowing. There are some exhibits on display which really hammer home the human aspect of the suffering; seeing buildings and bucks is one thing but seeing a room filled with some of the  7 tons of human hair which was discovered is quite another. You know you're going to see piles of shoes and spectacles but when you get there and you see them the effect it has on you regardless of the mental preparation, these can all be found in the 'evidence' block.<br />
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Many of the buildings on the site have been turned into exhibitions for each of the countries who had citizens exported to Auschwitz however block 11 shows you how some of the medical experiments and tortures were carried out. There are also incinerators for the human remains following from the gassing, the walls still black with soot.<br />
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Auschwitz

You can't really go to Poland without visiting Auschwitz and so we made sure it was ranked high on our to do list for this trip. Our gre...

Wroclaw

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vaGB59obaDHsKU32kDqOhdOGZbp0eM0a6wYJELmgdoKkj9qbz0FHKFzyasAaoY6srNBeDJXfPj69wLOzbFBkGqIEliJhHVDT3YE4xpCiiknMfpa4MFYuvXXo75VnOe5GC5Vg6Gso0u0/s1600/Wroclaw+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vaGB59obaDHsKU32kDqOhdOGZbp0eM0a6wYJELmgdoKkj9qbz0FHKFzyasAaoY6srNBeDJXfPj69wLOzbFBkGqIEliJhHVDT3YE4xpCiiknMfpa4MFYuvXXo75VnOe5GC5Vg6Gso0u0/s200/Wroclaw+%25284%2529.JPG" width="133" /></a>We arrived at Wroclaw and started to look for our usual wild camping spots - we ended up opting for a 24 hour secure carpark which was £11 per day (GPS: 51.11048, 17.04462) which was right outside the Panorama of Raclawice.<br />
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We headed toward the Town Square the 9am rush hour was in full swing, the busyness of the place was overwhelming. When arriving at major towns or cities we usually head for the highest point to figure out where is worth seeing and take a few panorama's. So, we made a bee line for St Elizabeth's Church and ascended the hundreds of steps up to the top of the spire, the steps were dirty and some alcoves stank of urine with piles of  pigeon poo on window ledges - not something we've encountered elsewhere.<br />
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I think it was a this point we have managed to work out what it is about Poland we haven't liked. Unlike the neighboring Baltic States, Poland doesn't appear to have the same sense of pride and standard of cleanliness that we've been used to so far. No old men sweeping the steps of derelict buildings here! </div>
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The town square was nice but as is the human prerogative for reconstruction the inside of many of the old buildings are concrete shells, evidence of the mass reconstruction which Poland underwent after WWII. </div>
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We called Wroclaw a day after an hour or so, heading East towards Auschwitz and Krakow then exit South. </div>
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Wroclaw

We arrived at Wroclaw and started to look for our usual wild camping spots - we ended up opting for a 24 hour secure carpark which was £11 p...

Krakow & Wieliczka Salt Mine

Auschwitz

Wroclaw

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